Mekhela: The traditional Assamese attire worn and woven by women
An attire, like food and customs, forms the fabric of a culture. Mekhela, a traditional Assamese garment, is no different. It has been part of Assam’s history since the 13th century but gained prominence during the Ahom rule in Assam from the 13th to 19th century.
Mekhela: A fabric of tradition
A Mekhela typically comprises two pieces of cloth, one draped around the upper half of the body and one at the bottom half. The bottom half is a round-fitted skirt (petticoat of sorts) that extends from the waist to the ankles and is often pleated like a traditional Indian saree. The bottom is paired with a Chador (meaning a cover), a piece of cloth wrapped on top of a matching blouse and then let loose at one end, like in a saree. The other end is tucked into the upper portion of the skirt. The upper portion of the attire is known by various other names such as Mekhela Chador, Mekhela Sador and Mekhla Chadar. Sounds interesting, right?
Quick fact: Makhela blouse was earlier known as Riha.
The Manchester of Assam
Mekhela originated in the small Assamese town known as Sualkuchi. It is situated in the Kamrup district, and is located 35 kilometres to the south of the Assamese capital, Guwahati. Mekhela is not only worn by women but also woven by them. In fact, Sualkuchi has so many handloom factories, that it has earned the title, Manchester of Assam!
Variety is the spice of life
There are primarily three varieties of Mekhela. Their differences lie in the kind of fabric used.
Muga Mekhela Chador: As the name suggests, Muga Mekhela Chador is made from a silk fabric called Muga silk (rough silk native to Assam). This silk, which comes with a natural yellowish-golden tint and a shimmering, glossy texture, is extremely durable and is known to often outlive its owners. The larvae of this silk moth live on the aromatic leaves, ‘som’ (Machilus bombycina) and ‘sualu (Litsea polyantha).
Eri Mekhela Chador: This one is made using Eri silk, which is notable for its soft and warm texture. It is produced by a type of moth named Samia cynthia ricini which feed on leaves of castor oil plant.
Pat Mekhela Chador: It is made up of Pat silk that is white or off-white in colour and is a kind of mulberry silk native to Assam. Silkwoms known by the name of Bombyx textor produce this silk. They feed on the leaves of mulberry trees. These are deciduous trees growing wild and under cultivation in many temperate world regions.