Qipao: The popular Chinese attire that originated in the 17th century
Every culture has their own traditional attires, and China is no different. In fact, the Chinese have a few iconic dresses such as hanfu, tang suit, Zhongshan suit and the most popular qipao.
Qipao (Mandarin), also called cheongsam (in Cantonese) is a one-piece dress worn primarily by women and literally translates to “Qi long gown.” It has a high neck (no collars) with straight flares going down all the way to the ankles. It is generally made of silk and has intricate embroidery work. It’s made in such a way that it covers all parts of a body except one’s head, hands and toes. Originally, it was both wide and baggy. However, with time, it has been transformed into a more form-fitting dress, with high slits on both sides. The modern variations also come in both sleeveless and bell sleeves. Now, it’s time for us to trace back its origin and evolution.
Born in 17th century during the Manchu reign
Fashion historians have traced the origin of qipao all the way back to 17th century China, under the Manchu (Qi) dynasty. As it turns out, one of the rulers of Manchu kingdom named Nurhachi, who reigned from 1559 to 1626, had established the banner system. It was nothing but a structure for organising all Manchu families into administrative divisions. While doing so, he also introduced a traditional attire for Manchu women and called it qipao or “banner gown.” Later, when Manchus were succeeded by the Han dynasty, around 1636, men also started donning the qipao. However, this male version came to be known as changpao or changshan meaning ‘long shirt’.
A six-part dress
Even though qipao happens to be a long and continuous dress, it has six main elements. They are:
Mandarin collar: Although called a collar, it’s made from a single cloth in such a way that it ties up two loose ends of a collar at the centre of the front of the neck.
Pankou: It refers to the traditional Chinese knotted buttons used to fasten the qipao loosely or tightly, depending on preference. There are different kinds of pankous, the most popular being straight. Usually, there are five pankous in one qipao—two are placed around the neck and the rest along the side of the chest.
Large front: As the name suggests, it is the large and upper part of the front that comes in different shapes and lengths. The three popular styles include: right opening front, large-rounded front and straight-slanted front.
Edging: This refers to the below edges of a qipao that are either rolling (gun style), inlaid (xiang style), embedded (qian style) or dang (flowing/ free style).
Sleeves: They come in different shapes and lengths. Some qipaos are sleeveless too!
Length and side slits: Qipao’s length ranges between knee and ankle. Even though early qipao lacks slits, modern qipao has them for a classic and elegant look.
Types of qipao
There are now three types of qipao, namely: Beijing qipao, Shanghai qipao and Hong Kong qipao.
Beijing qipao: This qipao is more traditional and conservative and has brighter colours and intricate decorations. It is also called Jing Pai style and is usually hand-woven.
Shanghai qipao: This type of qipao is both commercial and forward-looking with Western elements incorporated such as unique sleeves and big buttons. It is alternatively called Hai Pai style.
Hong Kong qipao: Simplest of qipaos, it is influenced by European fashion and the sleeves are often shorter. Maybe that’s why it is often worn as a school uniform and is paired with gloves and handbags.
Evolution of qipao
Over the course of history, qipao remained an intimate part of the Chinese culture. In fact, by the early 20th century, it had become quite a fashion statement across Shanghai when celebrities and upper-class women often wore it during prestigious events. In fact, in 1929, qipao was tagged as the unofficial national dress of the Republic of China.
However, since 1949, when China was taken over by the communists, qipao along with many other traditions, was discouraged. But that didn’t wipe qipao from the scene. It may not have been a popular choice in China, but it sure got its due recognition in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Singapore and has remained so since the 1950s. In fact, there, qipao was often paired with a jacket, stockings and heels for a more stylish and modern look.
It was only in 2001 that qipao became part of the global pop culture when it was featured in the famous Chinese movie In the Mood for Love where the female protagonist wore different qipaos in almost every scene.
Today, qipao is not worn daily, it still continues to be a favourite wear for women during weddings, parties and beauty pageants.