The journey of kaftans from Mesopotamia to the rest of the world
Over the course of history, many attires, just like some gourmet delicacies, have travelled across continents and made a permanent impact worldwide. Kaftan, also spelled as caftan, is a warm-weather staple which has become the catchall term in the fashion industry all across the globe. The story of its origin and evolution is interesting indeed!
Kaftans at a glance
This full-length, narrow, robe-like garment comes with full-length sleeves and either a deep, open neck or a fully-open, buttoned front. One can also describe it as a type of loose gown or tunic. The kaftan is typically worn as a coat or overdress. However, its usage, and fabrics vary from culture to culture. It is commonly available in wool, cashmere, silk, or cotton and can be worn with or without a sash.
Where did kaftan originate from?
Kaftan probably doesn’t have a single origin. There is a slew of similar tunic-like designs surfacing in different cultures all over the world in different times. However, it is believed that the kaftan we know today emerged in Mesopotamia, which includes the present-day Turkey, Syria, and Iraq. Starting from the 12th century right up to the 20th century, the Turkish sultans (also known as Ottoman rulers) are known to have worn kaftans made with expensive fabrics as a symbol of power and rank. They also gifted these garments to people of importance. Despite its Mesopotamian origins, kaftan has been adopted by numerous by communities in Southwest Asia, the Middle East, and North Africa. Finally, the Jewish and Russian population also embraced kaftans, adding their own improvisations. In the mid-twentieth century, kaftans made their way to America.
Kaftan in the Turkish culture
In the Turkish empire, also known as the Ottoman empire, the upper-class or royal people wore fur-lined, embroidered kaftans. The middle classes wore cübbe and hrka, a type of jacket. People from the lower rungs of the society also wore a distinct jacket style known as cepken or yelek. As the Ottoman Empire reached its Golden Age in the 16th century, business, politics, and arts flourished. Textiles, particularly metallic threads, reached a peak with the introduction of weaving. So, sultans took great delight in their attire, dressing up in robes or kaftans made of the finest and most expensive materials. The designs for court clothes were created by a group of persons known as hassa nakkaşlar in the palace.
Kaftan in the 20th century
At the turn of the 20th century, kaftans started becoming popular in the western culture. Inspired by the Middle Eastern and North African traditions, early 20th-century designers like Paul Poiret from France and Mario Fortuny from Spain started designing robes for women which looked much like kaftan. These loose-fitting garments were a departure from the form-fitting, corseted patterns that had been dominating women’s fashion in the Western world. However, this new design was too avant-garde to stick around. However, it laid the foundation for a style that moved away from the existing styles, embracing a new one with baggy, curve-less silhouettes.
Kaftans didn’t become popular in high fashion until the 1950s and early 1960s, when they were adopted by French couturiers such as Christian Dior and Balenciaga as a new type of evening gown or robe over matching trousers. This dress lent itself nicely to the 1970s designs, offering a simple silhouette that might be beaded, highly patterned, or sleekly minimal. Kaftan's success in America derived from its identification with exoticism as well as the ease-of-wear comfort of these pieces, from high end to mass market and cheap imports. From the mid-1970s through the last decade, the kaftan vanished from most high fashion catwalks, being linked with resort clothing instead.